The moon gently illuminated Piazza Vecchia, in the northern Italian town of Bergamo, one late October evening. Shadows speckled Renaissance-era buildings, houses with wrought-iron balconies and grand arched columns, while light created a glimmering sheen over the red brick squares of the plaza. From a 12th-century bell tower came the final echoes of the 100 tolls that once signified this town’s 10 p.m. curfew. See on travel.nytimes.com
